How To Identify a Real vs Fake Paithani Saree

Thanks to booming digital commerce, a wave of fake Paithani sarees are flooding the South Asian and global markets. In turn, this surge is threatening the livelihood of the traditional handloom Paithani industry. But do you know how to identify a cheap, convincing lookalike?

These are only a few features of a genuine Paithani saree. But since real and fake sarees are easy to confuse, the last thing you want is to waste your money on one that’s not real. Keep reading to learn the key signs of an authentic Paithani.

What Distinguishes Paithani Sarees from Other Sarees?

No two genuine Paithani sarees are the same because each one is handwoven. 

A handmade Paithani saree’s quality is superior to that made using a machine called a “power loom.” Skilled weavers use power looms to simulate handcrafted sarees, even using the same motifs and colors.

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What makes a real Paithani saree unique is the weaving method, the ornate designs, and its splendid latticework of gold and silver thread. These artful elements make it a much sought-after item in any Indian bride’s trousseau and the wardrobes of women of all ages in South Asian society.

Composition

A genuine Paithani saree is made of “zari” and delicate silk thread, giving it the same appearance on both sides. Zari (aka jari) is a fine silver or gold thread used in traditional Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi clothing, often as a saree brocade. Artisans weave zari into fabrics, especially silk, to create “zardozi,” intricate ornamental designs.

Weaving Process

The handcrafted Paithani is famous worldwide for its uniqueness. What sets this saree apart is its proprietary weaving technique called the “pallav.” This method involves weaving two colored threads, producing a trademark kaleidoscope effect.

Paithani weaver manage the entire process by hand, from the dyeing of the yarn to the actual weaving. They use handlooms to weave the saree’s main section. The pallav, with its distinct borders, is similar to tapestry weaving, one of the world’s most ancient weaving techniques.

Motif Creation

The creation of the design and motif is also extraordinary. Weavers tie and intertwine the loom’s vertical threads called “warp” with its crosswise threads called “weft.” This ensures the similar appearance of the front and reverse sides, plus the illusion of the patterns being enchased into the fabric base.

 

Real vs. Fake Paithani Sarees

Modern technology has allowed saree sellers to market both online and in brick-and-mortar stores. Most retailers sell other types of sarees, too. These include silk sarees and “semi-Paithanis” (partly machine-made and handwoven) and handloom Paithanis, Paithani blouse. This allows sellers to scam customers into buying machine-woven “original Yeola Paithani sarees.”

Unfortunately, consumers can be duped into buying fake sarees because they cannot inspect it before buying. If you plan to buy a pure silk handloom Paithani saree, be aware of the distinction between a real one and a fake.

Characteristics of Genuine Paithanis Sarees

Each traditional handcrafted Paithani is unique. The designs, though similar, always have major or minor variations. The manual nature of the pallav ensures that every piece is one-of-a-kind.

A Paithani’s key element is its entirely handwoven border and “pallu”—the saree’s loose, decorated end worn over the shoulder or on the head.

The pallu comes in a wide variety of designs. Motifs typical of genuine Paithanis include peacocks, parrots, vines, lotuses, and other flowers.

The designs on the front and back sides, including the border and pallu, are identical.

Craftspeople weave one color widthwise and another lengthwise.

Gems and pearls line the edges of ultra-expensive Paithanis.

Genuine Paithanis are available in both six and nine yards sharing the same characteristics and patterns.

Real Paithanis never lose their radiance, unlike other silk sarees, thanks to the use of gold/silver thread and natural dyes and colors. This means, though, that they need more TLC than cheaper machine-created sarees.

Features of Fake Paithani Sarees

The first telltale sign of a machine-made Paithani is the mesh of threads on its reverse side. But forgers use techniques like immaculate thread trimming to make fakes appear authentic.

A prominent feature of the power loom variant is its perfect symmetry due to the precise reproduction of each motif. Machines are capable of producing micro-fine details like tinier motifs.

Fake saree materials are noticeably shinier than those of real ones.

The same design appears in an extensive, non-natural color range.

The pallu and border colors sharply contrast with one another.

Since power loom Paithanis are mass-produced, multiple units of the same design appear in the marketplace.

Power loom sarees come in myriads of colors, many unrealistic.

Factors to Consider When Checking Paithani Saree Authenticity

Material: Test the silk by removing a few strands from the warp and weft, then burn them one by one. Genuine Paithanis should smell like human hair. The scent does not necessarily mean high quality, but it certainly distinguishes the natural from the synthetic. 

Pallu: The identical front and back of Paithani sarees come from manual techniques that weavers useth handlooms.

Border: All the borders of original Paithani sarees, even the basic versions, are done in a particularly recognizable style. This appears in variations of distinctive square or oblique designs.

Color: Since handloom threads use natural dyes, genuine sarees are available only in specific colors. That includes blue, purple, magenta, peach-pink, red, yellow, and green. These, however, are exceptionally durable, and the sheen lasts a lifetime. Power loom Paithanis, on the other hand, are available in an extensive color spectrum.

Weight: The addition of natural dyes (from plants, minerals, rocks), colors, and fine gold and silver thread make genuine sarees heavy. The added weight requires a lot more upkeep compared to lighter machine-manufactured sarees.

Duration of fabrication: Each basic original Paithani saree takes one to six months to be woven on a handloom. More complicated designs require even a year or two to create. In contrast, one machine-made saree takes only five days to two weeks to be woven on a power loom, ensuring a much lower cost than its genuine counterpart.

Cost: A basic handloom Paithani saree costs approximately Rs 8,000 to 9,000 ($110 to $123). Any Paithani falling below this price range may signal a fake.

Why Are Paithani Sarees So Expensive?

In ancient times, heirloom sarees were treated as currency because they were so expensive. Today, cotton Paithanis cost Rs 8,500 ($116) each, while silk ones start from Rs 10,000 ($137). A high-quality machine-made Banaras Paithani costs Rs 17,900 ($245). Compare this with a handloom Brocket Paithani, which retails at Rs 65,000 ($888). 

The term “semi-Paithani” has recently emerged in Maharashtra. It is a machine-made Paithani costing one-fourth of the price of its handloom cousin. An example is the hybrid Dharmavaram Paithani made with “jekad,” a machine and hand technique. A quality one starts from Rs 18,000 ($246).

These factors determine the prices of handloom Paithanis:

Color and design: Sarees with geometric motifs are cheaper than those with floral ones. The immensely popular handcrafted Bangadi Mor (featuring four peacocks and a lotus motif) is the most expensive.

Creation time: The handwoven saree is an art masterpiece. Each one with an elaborate design takes from six months to two years to weave.

The pallav: The 2,000-year-old weaving process uses the same technique employed on Persian carpets.

Conclusion

The Paithani is possibly the most opulent and beloved of all the sarees in India. No soiree, Maharashtrian wedding, or special event is complete without one. However, the proliferation of fake Paithanis has contributed to the near-demise of the real ones. Fortunately, various groups are trying to save the handloom Paithani industry from disappearing.

It is the saree enthusiast’s responsibility to connect with these entities in keeping the handmade Paithani in existence. How? By being adept at spotting fakes and patronizing only establishments that offer the real ones. We trust this article has helped make this possible!

We onlypaithani.com An Online Store for wedding saree  especially Paithani, a beautiful Saree which is handwoven in Pure Silk and Zari with traditional border and a grand Padar.

An initiative to promote this beautiful art and our rich tradition. 

Apart from exclusive Paithani sarees, we also sale Paithani blouse occasionally also stock some exquisite handloom sarees from other states of India.

 

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